The fibres inside Indian textiles (and what we’re rarely told)
We learn to love Indian textiles through colour, craft, and drape. We also grow familiar with certain fabric names early on — cotton, silk, wool, polyester. These words become part of everyday language, so much so that we assume they all describe the same thing: fabric.
In reality, these terms mean very different things. Some describe what a fabric is made from. Others describe how it is produced. And some are simply used as market shorthand for a particular look or feel. This overlap is where confusion begins — not because buyers are careless, but because textile language is often simplified, blended, or loosely applied across labels, marketplaces, and even conversations at the shop counter.
This first edition of Behind the Fabric is a gentle foundation: a clear, reader-friendly guide to the three main fibre families you’ll encounter in Indian sarees and textiles — natural, regenerated and synthetic — and what each means for comfort, care, longevity, and value.
First, a key distinction people often blur: “handloom” is not a fibre.
Let’s begin with one of the most common misunderstandings.
Handloom describes the weaving process, not the fibre.
A handloom fabric is one that is woven on a manually operated loom, without the use of electricity. That is the defining feature. But the yarn used on that loom can be cotton, silk, wool, linen, viscose, modal — and in some cases, even synthetic blends.
So a handloom saree can be:
- Cotton, silk, wool, or linen
- A viscose or modal blend
- Or even a synthetic yarn woven by hand
The loom tells you how the fabric was woven.
The fibre tells you what the fabric is made of.
This matters because “handloom” is often treated as a guarantee of “natural” or “pure.” It isn’t. If purity matters to you, you need fibre disclosure — and sometimes certification, depending on the claim.
The three fibre families you’ll see in Indian textiles
Think of fibres as belonging to three broad families.
Natural fibres
These come directly from plants or animals and have been used across the subcontinent for centuries.
Common examples:
- Cotton
- Linen
- Wool
- Silk
Regenerated fibres
These begin as plant material — usually wood pulp — which is then processed and converted into fibre.
Common examples:
- Viscose / Rayon
- Modal
They are plant-based in origin, but transformed into yarn through industrial processing.
Synthetic fibres
These are derived from petrochemicals.
Common examples:
- Polyester
- Nylon
- Acrylic
They dominate fast fashion because they are inexpensive, consistent, and easy to produce at scale.
Natural fibres: what makes them special (and what people often miss)
I. Cotton: breathable, familiar — and not automatically “low impact”
Cotton is India’s everyday hero fibre. It is breathable, comfortable in heat, dyes beautifully, and adapts well across weaves — from airy jamdani to structured ikat.
Because it is natural, cotton is often assumed to be environmentally gentle. In reality, conventional cotton farming can require large amounts of water, especially when irrigation is involved.
What matters more than the word “cotton” is:
- where it was grown
- how it was farmed
- how long the garment will be worn
A cotton saree worn for years tells a very different sustainability story from a cotton garment bought for a trend cycle.
II. Linen: plant-based, crisp, and often misunderstood in India
Linen is made from flax, a plant fibre known for its strength and cooling properties. It is prized for warm climates because it allows air to move easily through the fabric.
Pure linen creases easily. This is not a flaw — it is simply the nature of the fibre. Linen blends are often used when a softer hand-feel and reduced creasing are preferred.
A simple truth helps:
If you want a linen look with less crease, you are usually looking at a blend.
III. Wool: not common in sarees, but central to winter textiles
Wool is an animal fibre and behaves very differently from plant fibres. It insulates, manages moisture well, and has natural elasticity.
In Indian craft traditions, wool is more commonly found in shawls, stoles, and winter weaves rather than sarees.
IV. Silk: one word, many Indian realities
Silk is a natural protein fibre produced by silkworms. What many people miss is just how diverse Indian silks are.
India produces several distinct varieties, including:
- Mulberry silk — smooth, fine, and uniform
- Tussar (Tasar/Kosa) — textured and naturally matte
- Eri silk — soft, warm, and slightly wool-like
- Muga silk — prized for its natural golden colour
Each comes from a different silkworm species and region, and each behaves differently in drape, texture, and longevity.
When a label simply says “silk,” it does not tell you which silk it is — or how it will age.
Regenerated fibres: viscose, rayon, modal — the most misunderstood category
This is where most market myths live.
Viscose, rayon, and modal all begin as plant cellulose, usually sourced from wood pulp. That pulp is then processed and converted into fibre.
So:
- They start with plants
- They undergo chemical transformation
- They are not plastic
- They are not raw natural fibres either
Rayon, viscose, and modal — in plain terms
- Rayon is the umbrella term for regenerated cellulose fibres.
- Viscose is the most widely used form of rayon.
- Modal is a refined variant, often smoother and more stable, commonly made from beech wood.
In Indian markets, you will often encounter fabrics described as:
- Modal 'Silk'
- Dola 'Silk'
- Art 'Silk'
These names usually describe appearance and drape, not fibre origin.
They are not silk by biological definition.
Why these fabrics are mistaken for silk
Because regenerated fibres can be engineered to:
- drape fluidly
- feel soft and cool
- hold colour beautifully
- develop surface sheen
They are designed to look luxurious. That is their purpose.
There is nothing wrong with choosing them — as long as the choice is informed.
Synthetic fibres: why they dominate, and what to watch for
Synthetic fibres became dominant because they are:
- inexpensive
- uniform in quality
- wrinkle-resistant
- suitable for mass production
But they also:
- trap heat
- pill with wear
- shed microfibres
- do not biodegrade
This does not mean “never buy synthetics.”
It simply means: don’t buy them by accident — and don’t pay silk prices for silk-looking polyester.
What you can do as a non-technical shopper
You do not need to become a textile expert to make better choices. A few simple habits go a long way.
I. Ask for fibre composition
Is it cotton?
Is it silk?
Is it viscose?
Is it blended?
Even a basic answer protects you from the most common misunderstandings.
II. Separate appearance from origin
Shine does not mean silk.
Softness does not mean natural.
Uniformity does not mean handloom.
III. Buy for longevity
A fabric that stays in your wardrobe for years is always a better choice than one worn a handful of times.
IV. Remember what handloom means
Handloom protects a weaving tradition.
Fibre tells you the material story.
Both deserve respect.
Closing: Fabric literacy is a quiet kind of empowerment
The aim of Behind the Fabric is not to judge past purchases. Indian textile language is layered, regional, and often shaped by market shorthand.
But clarity changes everything.
When you understand what a fabric is made of, you choose better for your body, your climate, your budget — and for the craft ecosystems that depend on long-term value.
In the next edition, we will look more closely at what we call “silk” — and what it actually is.
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